6 Kommentarer MODERIGTIG SAMVITTIGHED
Estée Lauder støtter brysterne, H&M støtter AIDS-sagen, og den danske supermodel Helena Christensen kæmper for at skabe opmærksomhed omkring konsekvenserne af atomulykken i Tjernobyl. Velgørenhed er blevet en vigtig del af modebranchen. Cover undersøger hvorfor.
I begyndelsen af august overtalte den amerikanske milliardær Bill Gates en lang række af amerikanske rigmænd til at donere halvdelen af deres formuer til velgørende formål efter deres død. Modedesigneren Diane von Furstenberg var blot en af de glade givere. hendes mand, mediemogulen Barry Diller donerede også raskt væk halvdelen af sin formue væk, og det samme gjorde filminstruktøren George Lucas og borgmesteren i New York, Michael Bloomberg. Bill Gates og hans kone, Melinda, har i forvejen givet over 170 milliarder kroner til deres egen udviklingsfond, der primært støtter bekæmpelsen af hiv/aids, men også giver penge til malariabekæmpelse og sociale projekter i USA. Projektet har vakt berettiget opsigt verden over, og det må siges at være den seneste kulmination på en udvikling, der har været i gang flere år. Den empatiske revolution kan man kalde det, og særligt modebranchen er begyndt at involvere sig i velgørenhed.
I modeverdenen er det navnlig mærkesagerne brystkræft og hiv/aids, der tiltrækker sig opmærksomhed. Allerede tilbage i 1985 kom den lille røde aids-sløjfe, som i 1991 fik Estée Lauders lyserøde brystkræft-lillesøster. Sløjferne blev siden fulgt op af armbånd. Først kom de gule Livestrong-armbånd fra cykelrytteren Lance Amstrong, senere kom et hvidt armbånd mod fattigdom, et sort og hvidt mod racisme og et lyserødt mod kræft. I samme periode begyndte flere designere at lave velgørenhedsprojekter, og i de seneste år er udviklingen eksploderet. Støt Brysterne udbyder nøgleringe, tasker, armbånd, t-shirts, GHD har i de sidste fem år solgt et pink glattejern, hvor man ved køb donerer ti pund til Støt Brysterne. H&M får stor opmærksomhed i den brede befolkning med kampagnen Fashion against AIDS by H&M, og siden 1994 har kosmetikfirmaet Mac formået at samle over 150 millioner dollars ind til aids-forskningen via læbestiften Viva Glam.
“Modebranchen har været eksponent for et overforbrug, der ikke er tidssvarende,” siger Dorrit Bøilerehauge, som er leder på Videncenter for design og business på designskolen TEKO, og som undersøger udviklingen indenfor blandt andet markedsføring og forbrugertendenser. “Derfor udgør de to parter et rigtig fint par. Velgørenhedsorganisationerne har brug for opmærksomhed, og modevirksomhederne bruger det velgørende arbejde til at fremstå sympatiske og mere i trit med forbrugernes værdier.”
Modeverdenens kendte ansigter er også gået ind i kampen. I 2005 grundlagde den russiske model Natalia Vodianovas The Naked Heart Foundation, hvor hun bygger legepladser til russiske børn. “Formålet med Naked Heart Foundation er at give børn en tryg opvækst,” fortalte modellen til Cover i 2008. “Jeg er selv vokset op i fattige kår, og jeg ved, at russiske børn meget ofte er overladt til sig selv.” Den danske supermodel Helena Christensen bruger sit navn til at skabe opmærksomhed og indsamle penge til børnene efter Tjernobyl-katastrofen fra 1986. Under den seneste modeuge i København var hun protektor for projektet The Worlds Greatest Catwalk, og i den forbindelse overtalte hun forretningerne på Strøget til at donere en procent af dagens omsætning til Chernobyl fonden CCPI.
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Interessant artikel, men er helt klart enig med Allan Kruse i at det let kommer til at fremstå som et forsøg på at fremstå socialt ansvarlige fra modevirksomhedernes side, fremfor at tage et egentlig ansvar for at ændre på nogle grundlæggende problemstillinger - fx er det fedt nok at H&M støtter kampen mod aids, men hvor er det nu lige de får syet deres tøj og hvilke arbejdsvilkår mon de ansatte har på fabrikkerne i Cambodia? Og hvordan bliver deres tekstiler egentlig produceret - har vi som modeinteresserede forbrugere på jagt efter tøj til en god pris nosser til at høre sandheden om det? Har haft ondt i maven og lyst til aldrig mere at shoppe tøj som er lavet af ikke-økologisk bomuld siden jeg så dette blogindlæg for nogle dage siden: http://blog.palace-design.dk/#post113
...En baby født uden arme og ben fordi hans mor har arbejdet med pesticider under graviditeten - ifølge Organic Trade Association anvendes 10% af verdens pesticidforbrug til bomuldsdyrkning, selvom bomuld kun dyrkes på 2,5% af verdens landbrugsareal - skræmmende tal!
Jeg vil hellere have gennemsigtighed og ansvarlig adfærd i hele produktionsprocessen, end at virksomhederne smider lidt håndører til velgørenhed i ny og næ mens de scorer kassen på at udnytte underbetalt arbejdskraft og svinde jorden til med kemikalier - men hvordan kan jeg påvirke dem til rent faktisk at opføre sig bæredygtigt og ikke kun markedsføre sig som sådan ved at gnubbe sig lidt op ad forskellige velgørenhedsorganisationer?
Kunne være interessant hvis et blad som cover turde at grave lidt i sandheden om hvordan vores tøj bliver produceret - fremfor at markedsføre en livsstil som bare forstærker forbrugsfokuset...
Men tak for et i øvrigt lækkert blad - især fedt når i skriver en masse om kunst!